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Hey guys, i'm having a couple of pedals rehoused but i would like to make the paintjob by myself in my freetime, any suggestions on where to start to do something more that spraying them in just one colour? Don't want to do anything too complicated that requires tons of materials, at the same time i have some manual abilities but i really do want to improve.
Thanks!
I use acrylic and water colors on top of a primed and sprayed box, then clear coat with gloss. It's not like a powder coat finish, but for 15 minutes of work in my basement with a reclaimed toaster oven it looks great and is pretty strong. The sides don't get as much coverage as you think so I always go pretty heavy with the clear coat on that part.
How does everyone usually apply their paint/finishes? Does anyone apply them by hand like brushes, rollers? Or does everyone use sprayers? I'm not looking to do large runs of builds so maybe spraying is too expensive?
Rattle can primer and base color.. I use artists brushes for text and sponge things for texture and shapes and whatnot. If you have a reclaimed toaster oven it really helps to bake finishes.
BetterOffShred wrote:I use acrylic and water colors on top of a primed and sprayed box, then clear coat with gloss. It's not like a powder coat finish, but for 15 minutes of work in my basement with a reclaimed toaster oven it looks great and is pretty strong. The sides don't get as much coverage as you think so I always go pretty heavy with the clear coat on that part.
Probably this is what I m gonna try first, thanks!
Will post the horrible results as soon as I give the first try.
Yeah man, remember most acrylic and water colors (duh) are water based so you can wipe that shit off with a paper towel soaked with water if your work doesn't turn put the way you want. I'd recommend 2 coats of clear as well
BetterOffShred wrote:Yeah man, remember most acrylic and water colors (duh) are water based so you can wipe that shit off with a paper towel soaked with water if your work doesn't turn put the way you want. I'd recommend 2 coats of clear as well
Thanks for the suggestions man!
I should grab the rehouse pedals next week (too late for BILF ) , then I m gonna start making a few tests.
(the ~four inch snout fits right up the blow hole of the mouth atomizer).
Then I'll cut my finish with enough thinner to make spraying possible.
If you don't have an air compressor you can just use the mouth atomizer, but it's a fast lane to lightheadedness. (rattle can would be better IMO)
I confirm that mouth atomizer is something I would avoid if I can. But now that you mentioned it I could check if I can use the air compressor from the place I work.
Sorry if dragging OT: just noticed my local pound shop has some cans of spray paint, black and white gloss, satin or matt. There's a picture of a car on the label so guessing for automotive use Has anyone tried satin or matt finishes? I'm guessing matt could scuff/show marks easier or is automotive matt different/more durable than other matt finishes? They also have cans of 'clear lacquer', again for car use. Would this be the same/suitable as a clear coat? Amazon have it too: https://www.amazon.co.uk/250ml-Spray-Pa ... B01E95OM5U
I've used the auto clear coat, and matte finishes. None of its amazing.. I buy that shit that has the big 2X on it now, it seems to be the strongest and if you use a toaster it goes on thick AF.
this topic is infinite but I will say that one thing I learned through the years is that paint must have a bond and it must be have decent hardness to prevent flaking off or rubbing off. you also don't want to use sharpie with no clear coat. enamel is the hardest clear you can use in a can. chemical resistance to water, solvents, and oils is probably not important to everyone but it is something to consider if you want to engineer the world's finest guitar pedals.