ilovefuzz.com

I believe most apply the binding first, then mask it, finish the body, then scrape away any paint they may have made it onto the binding. Def worth a google. Theres some stuff on the TDPRI site.

You want that fresh unfinished cut so your binding lays evenly. Its a lot more work to scrape out the entire routed channel than to scrape paint off of the binding itself.

I have a body and bridge on the way to me, so there's finally a little movement on this project. I went with an unfinished Warmoth tele body routed for humbuckers, and a 2TEK bridge. There's a little voice inside me screaming that the 2TEK is snake oil, but my rational brain rarely wins these disagreements, so I'll report in when I'm finished. The trouble will be, obviously, that I'll have no basis of comparison, having never used this guitar with a different bridge. Anyway, next stop is pickups, and I'm currently leaning toward alumitones, but not sure if I want humbuckers or deathbuckers. I was going to go with Blk/Tri frost giants, but their comeback is just taking too long, and I started looking elsewhere. I'm also trying to figure out body-finishing details. I really wanted to have binding on the body, but I'm a little intimidated and don't really have the tools to do it properly. Anyone know how I might go about approximating this finish?

Looks like some watered down dye smeared here and there and lightly sanded back to achieve the patches. Just guessing

Thanks! I'll look into that!

My body and bridge arrived a few days ago. It may weigh a little over 14 lbs. (completely unfinished and unloaded, and without a pickguard), but man, does it all fit together like a glove.

Just for the sake of checking, did you measure from the nut to the 12th and all to make sure the bridge placement is correct for the scale length?

bennroe wrote: Anyone know how I might go about approximating this finish?

IMG_1084.jpg

I saw a guitar at a pawn in Nashville last week, that looked exactly like that, and was already loaded with alumitones...'bucker in the neck, and standard on the bridge (I got tricked by the multi price tag though and thought it was $300 at first ...was closer to $600)

BetterOffShred wrote:Just for the sake of checking, did you measure from the nut to the 12th and all to make sure the bridge placement is correct for the scale length?

Yeah, I did! Everything seems right on! I did a fair amount of emailing Warmoth prior to placing my order, so I was pretty confident, but I'm still relieved.

Jero wrote:I saw a guitar at a pawn in Nashville last week, that looked exactly like that, and was already loaded with alumitones...'bucker in the neck, and standard on the bridge (I got tricked by the multi price tag though and thought it was $300 at first ...was closer to $600)

Did you play it? I'm super curious how this is all going to turn out. My guitar will probably weigh twice what that one did, though, so it probably wouldn't sound all that similar. $300 would have been a nuts price, but $600 still isn't bad if it sounded good.

It's going to be tits man. I'm pumped to see the results

bennroe wrote:

Jero wrote:I saw a guitar at a pawn in Nashville last week, that looked exactly like that, and was already loaded with alumitones...'bucker in the neck, and standard on the bridge (I got tricked by the multi price tag though and thought it was $300 at first ...was closer to $600)

Did you play it? I'm super curious how this is all going to turn out. My guitar will probably weigh twice what that one did, though, so it probably wouldn't sound all that similar. $300 would have been a nuts price, but $600 still isn't bad if it sounded good.

Unfortunately, no. They had it up on the wall, in a display...not like it was a 50 year old Gibson or Fender or something Looked fantastic though...couldn't make out what brand it was. Seemed like something not mass produced. I'm sure whatever they were actually asking was fair, but if it had been that $300 I certainly would have taken the time to ask someone to pull it down.
...I'm sure your's will be equally, if not more, killer...well, actually it's already more with that neck

I'm feeling pretty lost on a finish for the body. At this point, I just want to figure out a finishing method and make colour/shade choices from there, based on available options. The problem is that my body is solid hard maple, which apparently nobody in the history of guitar-making has ever done, likely because it seems to have serious finishing limitations and weighs a ton. I keep getting conflicting information about what will and won't work with maple, but I'm looking for something relatively low-maintenance. I don't mind spraying or hand-applying, and I don't mind multiple coats or having to wait long periods of time for drying or curing. I do feel supremely nervous about any option that involves constant sanding, especially between or after coats. Anyone ever worked with maple? I know it gets used for necks, usually with tung oil, but I think the colouration is way too light for that to look all that effective on a body.

Hmm, I would think it would take a stain or paint fine? (thinking of skateboards here...my favorites are natural wood with stained colors). I don't know the process...maybe that only works before they are cured/veneered.

Why are you worried about sanding between coats? That's going to give the best results, regardless of finish, I would think.

(unhelpful post not helpful)

I don't know. Sanding in general just makes me nervous. I have a bit of a heavy hand and have a tendency to over-sand. I feel like anytime I get a file or a piece of sandpaper in my hand, I screw something up. Some random Warhammer mini? Not a big deal. Expensive guitar body? I don't know. It just feels like there's so much potential for costly error.

Also, anyone have recommendations on the following:

1) Should I be finishing the body before shielding the interior? Does it matter? I assume it makes sense to finish first, shield later.
2) Do I need to shield the pickup cavities? What about the tiny little passages for the wires between the pickups and the control area? I feel like the output jack cavity and control area are pretty important to shield, but I'm not sure about those two spots.
3) Should I ideally drill holes for the pickguard, bridge plate, etc. before finishing the body?

1) I would. Clean up, then shield.
2) It wouldn't hurt
3) Yes

and for the heavy handed thing...try sanding with your thumb and pinky making contact on the body surface, on either side of a block, with your middle three fingers applying the top pressure. You will be able to feel the wood, and are less likely to apply uneven/too much pressure. Go slow.

Also, this time of year you can get the foam water noodles at the dollar store or similar, and they are excellent for wrapping sandpaper around for the horns etc.. I have 2 sizes I've cut to about 8" just for round sanding.