All caps Panasonic 'red' metal film except where noted. The only source I could find for the Panasonic 1.0 uF caps was Digikey, but small bear might have them now not sure. Be careful de-soldering the old caps, Boss PCB quality is ehhh... not what it used to be.
C1 - .1uF
C2 - 1.0 uF non-polar metal film (NP MF)
C3 - 1.0 uF NP MF
C4 - .022uF
C5 - .1 uF
C7 - .00022uF (22pF) ceramic disc
C8 - 1.0 uF NP MF
C9 - 1.0 uF NP MF
C11 - .1 uF
C12 - .1 uF (no need to change really, same value higher quality cap)
C13 - .1 uF
C14 - 1.0 uF NP MF (again, just a quality upgrade sounds the same here)
Switch: this is the tough part. Completely de-solder one leg of diodes D4 and D5, the side closest to the input jack. push the legs out through the circuit board and carefully twist them together. Then solder wire from these tow legs to one side of a SPDT Switch, and wire the other side of the switch back to the hole where those two diodes were; this switch will now lift the clipping section in and out of the pedal. This is the Distortion or Overdrive mode switch.
If that sounds like a lot to do, check out the sound samples and choose one version and don't add the switch. I always preferred the diode lifted mode; for this just clip out D4 and D5. Or, leave them in for permanent nasty heavy fuzzstortion.
enjoy.