Why won't my LEDs light?

by **LaoWiz** » Thu Oct 23, 2014 6:51 pm

Yea, if you have it switched to where it should be on (LED on) and you are reading continuity between those two lugs it should be working. This sounds like you are having one of those twilight zone debugging nightmares. It's almost more frustrating than having the circuit not work. Been there, makes me really angry sometimes.

by **skullservant** » Thu Oct 23, 2014 6:55 pm

LaoWiz wrote:Yea, if you have it switched to where it should be on (LED on) and you are reading continuity between those two lugs it should be working. This sounds like you are having one of those twilight zone debugging nightmares. It's almost more frustrating than having the circuit not work. Been there, makes me really angry sometimes.

Yep. Just like Kosta's Rocktave and that ONE diode that was making the whole thing not work :mad:

by **colossus** » Thu Oct 23, 2014 7:03 pm

Yeah hella weirdness going on. It's just the LED for the boost so at this point i'm just forgoing it. It sounds awesome and the SHO will likely be always on anyhow. Meathead into SHO sounds too good to not always have the SHO on.

by **LaoWiz** » Thu Oct 23, 2014 8:11 pm

skullservant wrote:
LaoWiz wrote:Yea, if you have it switched to where it should be on (LED on) and you are reading continuity between those two lugs it should be working. This sounds like you are having one of those twilight zone debugging nightmares. It's almost more frustrating than having the circuit not work. Been there, makes me really angry sometimes.

Yep. Just like Kosta's Rocktave and that ONE diode that was making the whole thing not work

no shit!

by **LaoWiz** » Thu Oct 23, 2014 8:15 pm

colossus wrote:Yeah hella weirdness going on. It's just the LED for the boost so at this point i'm just forgoing it. It sounds awesome and the SHO will likely be always on anyhow. Meathead into SHO sounds too good to not always have the SHO on.

Also, Im sure you tried it but if you haven't - try to connect a lead from 9v--> resistor LED ----> lead from other end of resistor to led positive and run a lead from neg to switch, etc. I guess I could have said try a new led... I've had bad ones before...

by **eatyourguitar** » Fri Oct 24, 2014 10:32 am

its easy to kill an LED if you have it connected to V+. pretty much everything in the case is ground. if you are working on the thing with a battery installed, one slip can ground the LED with no current limiting resistor and *poof* its a garbage LED. you will not even know it has been blown since there are no visible signs of damage.

+1 to what LaoWiz said about testing it with a battery and a resistor.

Why won't my LEDs light?

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