Crybaby GCB95... Mod time



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Re: Crybaby GCB95... Mod time

Postby Boxbie » Fri Oct 03, 2014 7:14 am

$11 is the price of schooling. Chalk it up to live'n and learn'n :idk:
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Re: Crybaby GCB95... Mod time

Postby Paddyob » Fri Oct 03, 2014 7:26 am

I actually found it harder to remove these caps than the vox. Crazy.

I may have damaged the connection trying to get it to solder without touching the metal strip beside it.

I'm going to invest in a small soldering iron. As mine is big one. Maybe too hot.
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Re: Crybaby GCB95... Mod time

Postby Paddyob » Fri Oct 03, 2014 7:26 am

I actually found it harder to remove these caps than the vox. Crazy.

I may have damaged the connection trying to get it to solder without touching the metal strip beside it.

I'm going to invest in a small soldering iron. As mine is big one. Maybe too hot.
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Re: Crybaby GCB95... Mod time

Postby Mike » Fri Oct 03, 2014 11:23 am

Paddyob wrote:I actually found it harder to remove these caps than the vox. Crazy.

I may have damaged the connection trying to get it to solder without touching the metal strip beside it.

I'm going to invest in a small soldering iron. As mine is big one. Maybe too hot.


How are you desoldering?

Three schools of thought:
1. Heat and yank. Not good. Don't do this, as the risk of damaging the board is high.
2. Desoldering bulb / solder sucker. Some people love these. They seem fiddly to me. Maybe best for removing large amounts of solder.
3. Desoldering braid. Woven copper that sucks up the solder.

Personally, I only use desoldering braid. If you buy the good stuff-- and this is it-- it works incredibly well. Don't bother with the cheap crap. It has no rosin, and simply doesn't work.

All you do is place the braid on your joint and heat with your iron. The solder gets wicked up the copper. It's kind of fun. If there is not enough solder to get a good wick, you can add more. If done right, components will often fall right out of the board.

Good luck!
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Re: Crybaby GCB95... Mod time

Postby Paddyob » Fri Oct 03, 2014 7:43 pm

I was using a bulb. But I went snd bought a braid. $7 at source.

Cheap LEDs there too.
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Re: Crybaby GCB95... Mod time

Postby Paddyob » Sat Oct 04, 2014 1:32 am

So I did fuck up the trace. I managed to find a tutorial in fixing it. So I followed it. Scraped off some green coating to get copper. Tinned. Bent leads to touch. Solder. Fixed. I believe. That was on the C5 cap. Now an .022 tropical. I also changed the R1 resistor to carbon comp 1.8k.

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Re: Crybaby GCB95... Mod time

Postby Paddyob » Sat Oct 04, 2014 10:44 am

Ok. So my first screw up was repairable.

Solder bulb. Garbage. Solder braid. Amazing.

What a difference it was to remove solder with a braid in the second component.
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Re: Crybaby GCB95... Mod time

Postby Mike » Sat Oct 04, 2014 2:41 pm

Paddyob wrote:Solder bulb. Garbage. Solder braid. Amazing.


Mmm hmm. :thumb:

So long as it is has rosin/flux or is labeled as "no-clean" it is gonna be good. Don't try to save a few bucks by buying the cheap stuff-- it just doesn't work. I threw away 5 rolls of the stuff.

BTW, if you are ever salvaging old parts from used electronics, I recommend the safety glasses/blow torch/smack it on concrete method. Works like a charm and, again, pretty fun.

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Re: Crybaby GCB95... Mod time

Postby Paddyob » Sat Oct 04, 2014 7:55 pm

.022 too bassy. Replaced with original value .01 in tropical fish.

I would try the .015 but I may have over heated them on the first attempt.

No idea.
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Re: Crybaby GCB95... Mod time

Postby McSpunckle » Mon Oct 13, 2014 4:46 pm

Paddyob wrote:Ok. So my first screw up was repairable.

Solder bulb. Garbage. Solder braid. Amazing.

What a difference it was to remove solder with a braid in the second component.



Get a decent pump as well, if you can. The bulbs are kinda trash, but the spring-loaded pumps are solid. I keep a small one and a roll of braid on my desk, and have a larger pump for when things get... real.

The braid is absolutely the right choice for single-sided boards (like the one in that there crybaby), but it's not gonna work quite so well on double-sided boards that have plated through-holes. Even with the big pump they can be dicks. I usually just cut off the component and don't try to save it. That makes it way easier.
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Re: Crybaby GCB95... Mod time

Postby Paddyob » Fri Oct 17, 2014 1:12 am

Led bezel installed. Still waiting on the 3pdt.

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Re: Crybaby GCB95... Mod time

Postby Paddyob » Tue Oct 21, 2014 12:59 am

Buffer out. True bypass in. Led in.

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Sound test tomorrow. But the led is working. That's a good sign I hope.
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Re: Crybaby GCB95... Mod time

Postby Ben79 » Tue Oct 21, 2014 5:22 am

Nice work.

I could see this wah modding continuing to a pot or rotary to set the sweep frequency range, a resonance control (is that possible?), maybe even an lfo or an envelope follower to supply the control voltage. Adding a Morley-style LED/curtain system to work as a secondary variable resistor so the treadle could be used as an expression pedal to control another effect at the same time - that would be interesting. The possibilities are endless!
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Re: Crybaby GCB95... Mod time

Postby Paddyob » Tue Oct 21, 2014 10:18 am

Yup. That's the plan. :)

Trim pots I know very little about.
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Re: Crybaby GCB95... Mod time

Postby Paddyob » Wed Oct 22, 2014 10:46 am

Sound test. Awesome.
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