Help with a borked bypass



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Help with a borked bypass

Postby Psyre » Wed Jun 13, 2012 2:59 am

Hey guys, my roomates Clean chan/dirty chan won't bypass for some reason. Also if I only hit the clean chan side no sound is produced, yet if I hit dirty chan then I get guitar signal, and if I hit the clean side while the dirty is activated I get a boosted dirty signal.


so No sound when pedal is disengaged or if I engage clean only.

I compared the insides to my cc/dc and everything is identical.
sorry for crappy ipod pics


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Last edited by Psyre on Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Help with a borked bypass

Postby skullservant » Wed Jun 13, 2012 2:59 pm

Can you get a picture of the inside?
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Re: Help with a borked bypass

Postby Psyre » Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:41 pm

pics added
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Re: Help with a borked bypass

Postby skullservant » Wed Jun 13, 2012 11:45 pm

Wiring seems pretty okay. You might want to go back over all the connections and reheat/add a little more solder. A few of them look a little bare
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Re: Help with a borked bypass

Postby The4455 » Thu Jun 14, 2012 12:37 am

It could be a groundign issue, make sure the pcb isn't touching the enclosure.
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Re: Help with a borked bypass

Postby Psyre » Thu Jun 14, 2012 12:56 am

that was the first thing I made sure of, stuck a small square of paper towel underneath it to make there was enough clearance. all the solder joints look extremely clean as well.
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Re: Help with a borked bypass

Postby McSpunckle » Thu Jun 14, 2012 9:26 am

Totally +1 adding a bit of solder to the joints on the footswitch. Sometimes a solder joint can look good and not work. How? I don't know.

It's especially bad with solid core wire. Sometimes the solder joint can break.
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Re: Help with a borked bypass

Postby Jero » Thu Jun 14, 2012 4:16 pm

Have you messed with the trim pots at all?
Is it possible that the level of the clean side might be low enough to not be audible by itself, but enough to slightly boost the dirty side when used in conjunction?
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Re: Help with a borked bypass

Postby schrodingersgoldfish » Thu Jun 14, 2012 10:19 pm

Looks like it is time for you to learn the ways of the mutlimeter on continuity setting. testing out the connection on the dirty chan bypass. It sounds like a joint on the bypass side of the DP/DT switch is the borked one.
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Re: Help with a borked bypass

Postby The4455 » Fri Jun 15, 2012 1:35 am

McSpunckle wrote:Totally +1 adding a bit of solder to the joints on the footswitch. Sometimes a solder joint can look good and not work. How? I don't know.

It's especially bad with solid core wire. Sometimes the solder joint can break.


It's true, if there isn't enough solder on a joint, it's called a cold solder joint, in which there is some, but not enough solder to make a full connection. Also you want to make sure that the solder joints are dull, as apposed to being shinny.
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Re: Help with a borked bypass

Postby Officer Bukowski » Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:44 pm

The4455 wrote:
McSpunckle wrote:Totally +1 adding a bit of solder to the joints on the footswitch. Sometimes a solder joint can look good and not work. How? I don't know.

It's especially bad with solid core wire. Sometimes the solder joint can break.


Also you want to make sure that the solder joints are dull, as apposed to being shinny.

Are you sure about that?
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Re: Help with a borked bypass

Postby Jero » Sat Jun 16, 2012 12:07 am

Officer Bukowski wrote:
The4455 wrote:Also you want to make sure that the solder joints are dull, as apposed to being shinny.

Are you sure about that?

I don't think he is :)
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Re: Help with a borked bypass

Postby Chankgeez » Sat Jun 16, 2012 1:36 am

Jero wrote:
Officer Bukowski wrote:
The4455 wrote:Also you want to make sure that the solder joints are dull, as apposed to being shinny.

Are you sure about that?

I don't think he is :)


I think first we'll have to find out the meaning of the word "apposed".
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Re: Help with a borked bypass

Postby The4455 » Sat Jun 16, 2012 3:46 am

Jero wrote:
Officer Bukowski wrote:
The4455 wrote:Also you want to make sure that the solder joints are dull, as apposed to being shinny.

Are you sure about that?

I don't think he is :)


It's true, I'm not. I'm just remembering back to what I learned in my Digital electronics class, we didn't focus that much on soldering at all. But that's what it said in the soldering power point, but it sounded far fetched to me when I heard it as well. I wouldn't be surprised if it's wrong (which I'm assuming it is) because the class was more about digital electronics, hence the class name.
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Re: Help with a borked bypass

Postby Jero » Sat Jun 16, 2012 11:41 am

Chankgeez wrote:
Jero wrote:
Officer Bukowski wrote:
The4455 wrote:Also you want to make sure that the solder joints are dull, as apposed to being shinny.

Are you sure about that?

I don't think he is :)

I think first we'll have to find out the meaning of the word "apposed".

:lol: gosh

The4455, that class sounds interesting, what all did you guys do? As for the cold solder, the dull ones are typically the culprit. Side note, ROHS solder is somewhat dull looking regardless of a good/bad joint, in my experience.
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