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Here's a crazy ass Muff clone I did. It's mostly Ram's Head with a touch of Triangle, in terms of parts. I also added a bank of dip switches to swap out certain resistor values in order to make it more or less Triangle-like. Now that I've got it set where I like it, I'll probably not change it, but it was a fun experiment.
Easily the best sounding Muff I've ever built (or heard).
I also put a sag trimmer off the power supply (it's that big square thing in the photo below). A sagged Muff can sound pretty cool.
I did the pot wiring so that it was almost like board-mounted pots, but sturdier. It also holds the board steady:
Disclaimer #1: Co-Founder, Product Developer at Function f(x).
Disclaimer #3: I do sporadic, infrequent contract work for Black Arts Toneworks
Check out my photo gear on the cheap site: Tight Camera
Jero wrote:Did you add the bit of pcb to the pots for a little added strength or?
The pots were designed for board mounting, but the PCB wasn't spaced for them, so the bits of perfboard are a compromise to make them work. And it also turns out it does add some stability.
Disclaimer #1: Co-Founder, Product Developer at Function f(x).
Disclaimer #3: I do sporadic, infrequent contract work for Black Arts Toneworks
Check out my photo gear on the cheap site: Tight Camera
Jero wrote:Did you add the bit of pcb to the pots for a little added strength or?
The pots were designed for board mounting, but the PCB wasn't spaced for them, so the bits of perfboard are a compromise to make them work. And it also turns out it does add some stability.
+1 for this. you can also turn a regular solder lug pot into a PCB mount in a pinch with some thick clipped leads - 1n4001 and similar diodes are good for this.
Jero wrote:Did you add the bit of pcb to the pots for a little added strength or?
The pots were designed for board mounting, but the PCB wasn't spaced for them, so the bits of perfboard are a compromise to make them work. And it also turns out it does add some stability.
+1 for this. you can also turn a regular solder lug pot into a PCB mount in a pinch with some thick clipped leads - 1n4001 and similar diodes are good for this.
I actually used exactly that for a ST I built last week
smallsnd/bigsnd wrote:1n4001 and similar diodes are good for this.
Yeah, that's what I used in this build for the pot wiring from the PCB to the perfboard jumpers.
Disclaimer #1: Co-Founder, Product Developer at Function f(x).
Disclaimer #3: I do sporadic, infrequent contract work for Black Arts Toneworks
Check out my photo gear on the cheap site: Tight Camera
It's ugly and sounds nasty... in a good way. It's silicon treble booster going into a silicon Fuzz Face. I mojo'd out with BC108's, and took the easy route with a Beavis Audio Research protobread solderable breadboard. Shameless plug. The toggle switch makes the treble booster a full range boost. I painted the enclosure with that fluorescent orange marking paint. I thought it was going to be glossy, but it dried flat. It chips pretty easily, too. I can't wait for it to get all messed up so the white primer is visible underneath.
I love the smell of solder in the morning.
Successful dealings with: blooghost, starcastic, bronzetalon, theavondon, absent, jero, sevenSHARPnine, magiclawnchair, oldangelmidnight, and others that I can't remember lol
Disclaimer #1: Co-Founder, Product Developer at Function f(x).
Disclaimer #3: I do sporadic, infrequent contract work for Black Arts Toneworks
Check out my photo gear on the cheap site: Tight Camera
Hey thanks CJ! Yea, I built the pedal a couple weeks ago (6/23) but didn't paint it 'till yesterday. I also used spray clear coat instead of brushing on poly. Equal if not better results with the spray, & much easier to do (and you won't go through tons of brushes).
My only problem is, I can't get the circuit to stop acting up. I'm almost positive something is shorting out but for the life of me can't figure it out. If you turn the pedal on, it works 50 % of the time. When it doesn't work, if I tap it or pick it up off my board a little and drop it down it cuts on. I don't think it's the switch cause the led always works, and that wouldn't explain why bumping it fixes it.
Hmmm. Why don't you post a new thread and show some gut shots.
Sounds like there is a cold joint somewhere. The behavior is almost like either the effect is grounded out until you move it, or it's not getting a ground connection until you move it.
Definitely sounds like a power flow issue (ie - either ground or 9v are not solidly wired).
Disclaimer #1: Co-Founder, Product Developer at Function f(x).
Disclaimer #3: I do sporadic, infrequent contract work for Black Arts Toneworks
Check out my photo gear on the cheap site: Tight Camera
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